O, Canada!

Very few people think of Canada when they think of wine. And though most of Canada is land better suited for wheat, rhubarb, animal grazing, boreal forest or muskeg, there is a hidden valley in Western Canada that produces some of the best wines in the world.

This valley is one of those little miracles of nature. It is just far enough away from the ocean to be dry, but it is close enough to stay temperate throughout the year. Mountains block the arctic winds from freezing the area too thoroughly in the winter, and a natural lake system gives the land enough ground-water for orchards and vineyards. The first settlers of the valley from a European descent quickly noticed the area’s grand ability to bear fruit. But it was only a few decades ago that farmers began to plant grapes.

The grapes, especially (but not exclusively) those of a white variety, make some of the most delicious wine on earth. Anything from Merlot to Sauvignon Blanc to Pinot Grigio will grow in this valley. But this writer’s favorite pick of the region is the Pinot Blanc.

The Pinot Blanc is an in-between grape, and therefore, rarely anyone’s favorite. It smells of fresh, spring-green flowers, but the scent is not as developed and classical as a Riesling. When you breathe it in, you breathe in a cool breeze on an early spring evening. Its golden color is neither dark nor light – but that perfect tone that glistens with its own incandescence when condensation has just begun to stick to the sides of your glass. It has the acidity of a Chardonnay that grabs the tongue, but it is light like a Sauvignon Blanc, refreshing on a hot summer evening.

This poor grape is highly understated. It can go with so many foods and so many situations, but it never grabs the taster. It only soothes and fits with your mood – it aims to please like a desperate lover. And like a desperate lover too malleable to your whim, you will cast her aside after one bottle.

I know you.

But if you will only have one bottle of this perfectly suitable wine, you must have a bottle from the Okanagan Valley. The Pinot Blanc here is of such high quality that her simple, agreeable, affable personality might entice you to come back to her again and again.

Photo: Pinot Blanc 2007, Calona Vineyards, Okanagan valley, Canada