6/02/2010

Stable Ridges and Twisters


Stable Ridges and Twisters



Taking Route 66 from Tulsa to Oklahoma City, you will see old oil towns, abandoned banks and oil drums from four score ago, some cattle and possibly deer – but you will also see the area of Oklahoma with a burgeoning wine industry in the middle of the Bible belt. Here, cattle pastures and fields of oil derricks are being cleaned and shaped into orderly vineyards, contrasting beautifully with the dark green, twisted oak, the brown rock and red soil and golden wild grass.


In the middle of this cultured cattle country rests a small, antique town straddling a now-quiet cross-roads. But this little stop boasts of three excellent wineries. With a tasting room in an abandoned, century-old catholic church, Stable Ridge hosts a vast array of wines from grapes grown in Oklahoma.


Grapes grown in this hot, dry climate take on a special quality of their own, holding more sugar than their more pampered California brethren. Our old friend, the Zinfandel, when planted in Oklahoma becomes a completely different family of grape. Rather than the warm, smoky, aristocrat taste of the California Zin, the Oklahoma Zin flirts with the tongue with her sweet and sour taste. Her smell is of cherry rather than earth and alcohol. Her color is cheerful and rosy, rather than dapper and dark.


She compliments perfectly the small wild strawberries and melons from Oklahoma. And she relaxes others while sitting on a porch-swing or rocking chair on the patio listening to the thunder roll across the plains and the dark clouds sweep from west to east. She also compliments her home, the quiet old church along Route 66. This renovated church, along with the other two wineries – also inside refurbished buildings – miraculously survived decades of tornadoes, which pummel this region, destroying the unsightly shopping outlet along the highway only a decade ago. But the vineyards and wineries and people that enjoy their product live on, and only joke about the twister that bounced between fields and roads and sandy rivers.

Vinho do Gramado


Vinho do Gramado



The vast plains of Latin America stretch for thousands of miles pushing Atlantic breezes westward over the hills of Uruguay and onwards to Mendoza Valley, nourishing dark red grapes. But this is not the story of those grapes. This tale is of the unsung little Latin cousin of the more famous Malbec and Tannat – the grapes that create the vinho branco suave.


Sitting in sultry Rio de Janiero, few people can imagine that the tropical country of Brazil can produce wine. But only a few hours north of rainy, hot Puerto Alegre – climbing out of the famous, sprawling pampas, and into hills of increasingly higher altitudes and through multitudes of pineiro trees – a few pleasantly surprised travelers find the German town of Gramado. This little town, with German architecture placed picturesquely on a high ridgeline is famous for its chocolate, fondue, and white wine.


The generically-named vinho branco suave is anything but ordinary. Its sweet taste is reminiscent of its German ancestors – the Riesling, the Pinot Gris, and the Gewurtztraminer. But there is certainly a unique quality in the flowery, silky sweetness, the warm aftertaste, and the refreshing light-golden color. It is similar to the taste of many old world grapes introduced into more tropical, wetter climates where only the strongest and sweetest survive to fruition.


If you find yourself in southern Brazil, weary of either the tropical forests to the north or the rambling plains to the south, seat yourself atop the cultural outpost of Gramado. There you can enjoy a cheese fondue, relish in the cool breeze of the mountains, nibble on some chocolate and sip your sweet, almost-German wine.